Crafting Cameos for Timeless Jewelry

Without any doubt, when one thinks of precious ornaments that have endured through the centuries without losing their charm, cameo jewelry comes to mind. These are jewels that have always been loved and appreciated.

What is a cameo

The term “cameo” refers to a piece of jewelry with a distinctive type of craftsmanship. The etymology of the word is likely, though debated, of Arabic origin. The jewel is created by carving a layered stone such as agate, onyx, or chalcedony quartz, or certain shells from the Cassis family. These shells, such as Cypraecassis rufa or Cassis cornuta, are characterized by having a surface made up of two distinct colors. In fact, cameo jewelry is created through engraving: the surrounding surface is carved away until reaching the underlying layer of a different color. The same technique is used for specific types of hard stones that feature naturally layered bands of different colors.

Some historical notes on cameo jewelry

A symbol of elegance and luxury by definition, cameos have been used since ancient times. The earliest examples have been found in rich Hellenistic tombs in Turkey, dating back to the 3rd century BC. Numerous artifacts from the Roman Imperial age have also been discovered, as the craftsmanship of cameo jewelry was highly specialized and therefore very expensive. Famous examples include the Farnese Cup from the Augustan age, a libation cup made of onyx, and the Gemma Augustea from the same period. The art of cameo carving also spread to the East in ancient times, with many examples found in Persia and Mesopotamia between the 3rd and 7th centuries. After a period of decline during the Middle Ages, cameo production regained prominence during the Renaissance, with Italy becoming its main center of production. Today, it remains a form of artisanal excellence.

Cameo jewelry craftsmanship techniques

As in ancient times, cameo production is still carried out by hand today, following a precise process with specific terminology:

• Rough cutting (Scoppatura): This is the phase immediately following the selection of the material, whether shell or stone. It involves removing the convex part of the shell or stone, leaving the desired flat surface.
• Marking and shaping (Segnatura e sagomatura): After rough cutting, the ornamental design is sketched, first outlining it roughly and then removing excess material from within the concave surface.
• Shaping (Aggarbatura): In this phase, the piece is given its desired shape—most often round or oval—using a special grinding wheel. The pieces are then fixed onto a wooden spindle with a hot adhesive made of Greek pitch, wax, and plaster.
• Surface scraping (Scrostatura): At this stage, the outer surface of the shell or stone is abraded to expose the layer intended for carving.
• Engraving (Incisione): After all these preliminary steps, the shell or stone is ready to be engraved according to the intended design. At this point, if not already involved in the previous steps, the master engraver steps in to create the final piece.

Many delicate stages are required to produce such an object, making cameo jewelry extremely refined. The skill required is comparable to that of a true work of art. This is why cameo jewelry is found in private collections and in some of the most famous museums in the world. For the same reason, cameos are proudly displayed as symbols of authority and royalty. Just think of the ceremonial crown still used today by the Swedish monarchy. The tiara worn by the current Crown Princess once belonged to Joséphine de Beauharnais, the first wife of Napoleon Bonaparte.